Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese is undoubtedly one of the most elegant and beloved masterpieces of Northern Italian cuisine. Hailing from the rolling hills and mist-covered vineyards of Piedmont, this dish marries tender, thinly sliced veal with a velvety, rich tuna and caper sauce. While the combination of meat and fish might sound unusual to the uninitiated, the harmony of flavors is nothing short of miraculous, creating a balance of savory, creamy, and tart notes.
Traditionally served as a sophisticated antipasto during festive holidays like Christmas, or as a refreshing main course during the sweltering Italian Ferragosto, it is a staple on tables from Turin to the Langhe wine region. The key to its success lies in the quality of the ingredients and the patience to let the flavors meld. Unlike many Italian dishes best eaten piping hot, this recipe shines when served cold, making the Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese a perfect make-ahead dish for entertaining. This recipe yields 4 generous servings, inviting you to bring a piece of Italian culinary history to your own dining room.
Ingredients
Serves: 4
For the Veal:
- 800g (1.7 lbs) Veal round (top round or eye of round)
- 1 large carrot, roughly chopped
- 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
- 1 yellow onion, peeled and halved
- 1 garlic clove, peeled
- 2 bay leaves
- 3-4 cloves
- 250ml (1 cup) dry white wine (preferably Arneis or Gavi)
- 1 liter (4 cups) water (or enough to cover the meat)
- 1 tsp salt
- ½ tsp black peppercorns
For the Tonnato Sauce (Salsa Tonnata):
- 200g (7 oz) high-quality canned tuna in olive oil, drained
- 3 hard-boiled egg yolks
- 4-5 anchovy fillets in oil
- 2 tbsp capers (salted or pickled), rinsed well
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Extra Virgin Olive Oil (approx. 1/2 cup or as needed for consistency)
- A splash of the cooking broth (optional, to thin the sauce)
For Garnish:
- Caper berries or extra capers
- Thin lemon slices
- Fresh parsley leaves
Instructions
- Prepare the Meat: In a large Dutch oven or stockpot, combine the water, white wine, carrot, celery, onion, garlic, bay leaves, cloves, salt, and peppercorns. Bring the liquid to a gentle boil.
- Simmer the Veal: Carefully lower the piece of veal into the boiling broth. Reduce the heat immediately to low. The liquid should barely simmer. Cover and cook for approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour. Ideally, use a meat thermometer; the internal temperature should reach 60°C (140°F) for a tender, rosy interior.
- Cool Completely: This is the most crucial step. Once cooked, turn off the heat and let the veal cool down completely inside its cooking broth. This keeps the meat incredibly moist. Once cool, wrap the meat in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or overnight) to firm up.
- Make the Sauce: In a blender or food processor, combine the drained tuna, hard-boiled egg yolks, anchovy fillets, capers, and lemon juice. Pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the Extra Virgin Olive Oil until you achieve a smooth, mayonnaise-like consistency. If the sauce is too thick, add a tablespoon of the cold veal cooking broth to loosen it.
- Slice and Assemble: Take the cold veal out of the fridge. Using a very sharp knife or a meat slicer, slice the veal as thinly as possible against the grain. Arrange the slices flat on a serving platter, slightly overlapping.
- Dress the Dish: Spoon the creamy sauce generously over the meat, covering the slices almost entirely (tradition dictates you shouldn’t see much meat!).
- Rest and Serve: Cover the platter with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving. This allows the meat to absorb the flavors of the sauce. Garnish with caper berries and lemon slices just before serving.
Chef’s Tips for Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese
To achieve the perfect Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese, keep these expert suggestions in mind:
- Don’t Overcook the Veal: The meat must remain tender. If overcooked, it becomes dry and chewy. Using a meat thermometer is highly recommended.
- The Resting Period: Never skip the final resting step. The dish tastes significantly better the next day after the sauce has permeated the meat fibers.
- Modern vs. Traditional Sauce: The original 19th-century recipe did not use mayonnaise. The creaminess came solely from pounding hard-boiled yolks with tuna and oil. However, some modern home cooks add a spoonful of homemade mayonnaise for a silkier texture.
- Wine Pairing: Pair this dish with a local Piedmontese white wine like a crisp Roero Arneis or a light red like Dolcetto d’Alba.
- Serving Temperature: Remove the platter from the fridge about 20 minutes before eating; it is best enjoyed cool, not ice-cold.
Note: If you enjoy elegant northern Italian meat dishes, you should also try our recipe forBrasato al Barolo, another classic from the Piedmont region.
Regional Notes, History & Cultural Insights
The history of Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese is a fascinating journey through the evolution of Italian cuisine. Its origins can be traced back to the 18th century in the province of Cuneo. Interestingly, the dish didn’t originally contain tuna!
The name “tonnato” is believed to be a linguistic corruption of the French word tanné (tanned), referring to the process of cooking the meat until it lost its raw color. In early versions, the sauce was made with anchovies and oil to add flavor to boiled meat leftovers. Tuna was a luxury ingredient in landlocked Piedmont and was only added later, in the late 19th century, when trade with port cities like Genoa improved.
Today, the dish is a symbol of Cucina Piemontese. It represents the region’s ability to blend humble farm ingredients (veal) with preserved goods from the nearby Ligurian coast (anchovies, oil, and eventually tuna). According to the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, which safeguards authentic Italian recipes, the true Vitello Tonnato must strictly avoid industrial mayonnaise, relying instead on the emulsion of eggs and oil to achieve its signature velvet texture.
In Italy, this dish evokes memories of family gatherings. It is one of those rare recipes that is omnipresent—found in humble trattorias, high-end Michelin-starred restaurants, and grandmothers’ kitchens alike.
Conclusion
There is a reason why Vitello Tonnato alla Piemontese has stood the test of time. It is sophisticated yet comforting, complex in flavor yet simple in preparation. Whether you are hosting a summer garden party or looking for a stunning starter for a winter feast, this dish brings the authentic soul of Piedmont to your table. We hope you enjoy making this Italian classic as much as you will enjoy eating it. Buon appetito!
